The latest issue of our Garden Path newsletter is now available! Written and published by the Vance/Warren Extension Master Gardener Volunteers, this month's issue includes lots of great information, including:
The latest issue of our Garden Path Newsletter is now available! It contains lots of great information including timely tips, a "plant of the month", and much more. It is written and published by the NC Extension Master Gardener Volunteers of Vance and Warren Counties. Here's a link to the newsletter:
This is a guest post by Cooperative Extension Intern Preston Ellis. This is valuable information for farmers who are considering new enterprises.
Economic decisions can be some of the toughest decisions we
face on a daily basis especially when managing a farm or business. Maintaining
your budget and finding your opportunity cost is an easy way to help you make
those decisions and maximize profit as well.
Budgets are very useful in regards to having a place to put
down where and how you spend your money as well as where your money is coming
from. It is important to have a budget because not only will it give you a
representation of the current fiscal year you are in, but it will also allow
you to budget out future cost and profits so that you can forecast future
This is a guest post by Cooperative Extension Intern Preston Ellis.
The tomato is an essential part of any home garden in the
South. However, finding the variety that best suits your taste is another task
in itself. Each variety offers something different, whether in taste or
production, and leaves farmers and home gardeners in the everlasting search to
find the best variety of tomato.
This is a guest post by Cooperative Extension Intern Preston Ellis.
White clover is a weed that appears year after year as it
continually grows and takes over lawns. The weed can be very difficult to get
rid of, but with patience and care the task can be achieved.
While some people have decided to use white clover as a
substitute to grass, most people do not enjoy the weed and see it as a
nuisance. The low-lying weed can be very persistent and hard to get rid once it
makes an appearance in a yard.
All too often I get calls from folks who are having difficulty with fruit crops they've planted. All too often, the cause can be traced back to errors in variety selection, plant placement, spacing, soil preparation, etc. These are errors that can be easily avoided by following recommendations from NCSU horticultural experts. Fortunately, much of their recommendations are available through on-line publications. For convenience, I've linked them all here:
Below is a link to the latest edition of the Garden Path newsletter, published by the Vance/Warren Extension Master Gardener Volunteers. You will find lots of great information, including timely tips, plant of the month, tips for herb gardening, and the origin of many of our common weeds. Enjoy!
In a few moments I'll be speaking to a group of visually impaired people about Cooperative Extension and my job as a Horticulture Agent. I thought I would share with them some suggestions for fragrant shrubs that could be added to the landscape. But these shrubs are good for anyone, so I'm sharing the list here:
There are a many more. Be certain to add a few to your own landscape. You'll be glad you did!
Here's the "Question of the Day" for March 25, 2015:
After putting lime on my yard, can I put approximately 2 inches of topsoil over it and plant grass seed? I will be covering the moss.
Unfortunately, this is the wrong time of year to plant tall fescue. Also, if you have moss you want to eliminate, it's important to address the underlying cause. Yes, pH could be contributing, so lime may help (get a soil sample to be sure and to find out how much you actually need). But moss is also associated with shade. If that's the case and you don't let more light in (e.g. by removing or limbing up trees) then the moss will probably return. Moss is also associated with compacted soil. Just covering up compacted soil with 2 inches of top soil won't give you enough soil depth to have a healthy lawn.
Here's a better approach:
1. Take a soil sample now. Boxes, forms and instructions are available from your County Extension Center.
2. If shade is an issue, take corrective actions (trim or remove trees as needed).
3. Late this summer, apply fertilizer to correct any lime or nutrient deficiencies identified in the soil test report.
4. Bring in topsoil if possible.
5. Till to a depth of at least 4 inches to mix existing soil with topsoil and the lime and fertilizer you applied.
6. Broadcast a turf type tall fescue blend in early September, mulch with straw and water lightly but frequently until seed germinates.
For complete details, you may want to download a copy of NCSU's Carolina Lawns from:
Alternatively, and I promise I'm not being facetious, learn to appreciate moss! Many gardeners find it an attractive and welcome part of the landscape.
Click below to download the latest edition of the Garden Path Newsletter, written and published by the Vance/Warren Extension Master Gardener Volunteers. Be sure to check out the Plant of the Month, Herb of the Month, timely tips and much more!
We plan to try our hand at gardening this year. We have never done a garden before so this will be an adventure. I tested the soil where the garden will be. I picked a flat location, not too far from the house, that has a water supply and is next to our garden shed. The only down side is that it may be great eating for the rabbits and deer, we will have to wait and see how that goes. I checked out the NCDA&CS web site for all the applicable agronomy notes, etc but have a few questions specific to our situation.
We started a compost pile a few weeks ago near the garden shed. I am using horse manure and kitchen scraps, mostly the manure. Currently it is just a pile that is not in a container or covered. I could put a lean-to on the side of the garden shed to cover it if you think that will make a big difference. My question in regards to the compost pile is when should we incorporate it into the soil? That is, how decomposed should the compost be when we incorporate it into the soil?
The area where the garden will be located is all currently covered in bermudagrass, so that is something we will have to deal with. I know it won't do any good to spray it with glyphosate until it is green again, but I didn't know if it would be too late to till, fertilize and plant by then. If it is, we may need to spend this year killing the bermuda, working the soil and getting it ready for next year.
Thanks for your time,
Nancy & Sam
Dear Nancy & Sam,
How exciting! Wishing you great success with your endeavors, and please don't hesitate to call or e-mail anytime with questions.
Regarding your compost pile, you don't need to cover it. Rainfall will add needed moisture. Does the manure have some type of bedding material mixed in, such as wood chips? If not, you may want to add a carbon source such as shredded leaves.
The best and safest approach is to thoroughly compost the material before use. As an added precaution, I would add the finished compost to the garden sometime in the late fall or winter when all the crops have been removed. This approach will reduce the risk of contaminating the produce (e.g. e-coli) and also reduce the salt content of the manure which can "burn" plants.
Regarding the bermudagrass, that is going to be a challenge, but it's not insurmountable. One approach would be to let the bermuda green up and grow for a few weeks, then spray with glyphosate. Check the herbicide label for the waiting period (how long after application before you can plant), and once elapsed, till up and start sowing. This means you'd be starting your garden much later, but you could still have a very productive season. You will also get some regrowth of the bermudagrass, but that can be managed to some extent through directed sprays of glyphosate (Careful! Maybe hold a sheet of cardboard to shield the vegetable plants, or make a shield for the sprayer by duct-taping a 3-liter pop bottle with the bottom cut out to the wand). You can also use a selective grass control herbicide that contains sethoxydim and spray right over the top of many crops (but NOT corn!).
Another possibility would be to work solely on controlling the bermudagrass for this first season and wait until next year to plant the garden. With this approach, you could make two or three applications of glyphosate, or even lay down a thick layer of newspaper and cover with mulch.
It would also be wise to maintain a "bermudagrass-free" perimeter around the garden.
Hope this helps and keep me posted on your endeavors!
All the best,
Recommendations for the use of agricultural chemicals are included in this publication as a convenience to the reader. The use of brand names and any mention or listing of commercial products or services in this publication does not imply endorsement by North Carolina Cooperative Extension nor discrimination against similar products or services not mentioned. Individuals who use agricultural chemicals are responsible for ensuring that the intended use complies with current regulations and conforms to the product label. Be sure to obtain current information about usage regulations and examine a current product label before applying any chemical. For assistance, contact your county Cooperative Extension agent.
Dear Paul; I have an ivy vine that is crawling up several of my oak trees and one pine tree. I consider the vine to be somewhat picturesque, it is about 25 feet up one of the oaks. Is this harmful to the tree?? If so, do I just cut the vine at the base of the tree?? If the vine must be identified, can I snip a leaf and email a picture to you??
Dear Fred; I suspect the vine is English Ivy (Hedera helix), and yes I can confirm from a clipping or photo. It is problematic for a couple of reasons.
1. Since ivy is evergreen, the leaves will be covered in ice if we have freezing rain, which adds significant weight and can cause limbs to break.
2. When ivy starts climbing, it can reach the reproductive stage and produce berries. The berries are consumed by birds, which can spread ivy to new areas. Ivy is a non-native plant, and while it can serve a purpose in the landscape, it displaces native plants when it becomes established in natural areas.
Cutting the vine at the base is a good way to control it. The ivy may stay green in the canopy for a season or two as it burns up stored sugars, but eventually it will die.
Dear Paul, On my land near where the old farmhouse used to be is a living pear tree. It has to be over 100 years old. It used to have very large pears but no longer bears fruit. Some branches look like they have new growth. Is it possible to cut a branch and reroot it somehow? Stick it in water or soil and for roots to grow? Or would it have to be grafted to another pear tree? Is it possible an off-shoot of this tree would ever produce fruit? Sincerely, Fred
Here's my answer:
Here's the short version:
If you want pears, plant a new pear tree. Choose a cultivar/rootstock combination that is well suited for Piedmont North Carolina.
Here's the long version:
If the tree has some particular historical or sentimental value, then you could take a cutting and graft it onto appropriate rootstock to start a new tree. You could try it yourself, but grafting is pretty tricky and you might be better off if you could find a fruit tree nursery that could do the grafting. They could tell you when to take cuttings, how to store and ship, etc.
You could also skip the grafting and just root some cuttings, grow them out in pots for a season or two, then plant in the ground and see what happens. Only thing you have to lose is time and a few bucks for supplies.
You could also try to figure out why the tree is not bearing (likely due to shade or nutrient deficiency) and correct the problem to see if it would start bearing again.
Happy to provide more information on any or all of these options.
8:30 Registration and coffee
9:15 Attracting Wildlife with Native Plants:
Chris Moorman, NCSU Dept. of Forestry and Environmental Resources
10:15 Growing Miniature and Shrub Roses:
David Pike, Witherspoon Rose Culture
11:15 Native Plants-Right Plant for the Garden:
Lauri Lawson, Niche Gardens
12:00 Lunch and Herbs in the Landscape:
Keynote speaker John Wrenn, J&B Herb and Plant Farm
1:30-2:30 p.m. Optional Herbs in a Container Workshop (extra registration required; fee includes all materials)
Registration Costs and Notes
Morning session only (includes lunch): $15 on or before March 15; after March 15, $20.
Morning session with workshop: $40 on or before March 15; after March 15, $50.
For more information and downloadable registration forms, go to http://go.ncsu.edu/vancegarden
or contact NCSU Cooperative Extension, Phone 252-438-8188 (Vance); 252-257-3640 (Warren)
Check out the February 2015 issue of the Garden Path Newsletter, written and published by the Kerr Lake Extension Master Gardener Volunteers. As usual, this issue contains lots of timely tips. Be sure to read about the Plant of the Month (cast iron plant), new flower and vegetable varieties, good plants to attract birds, and more! Click the link to download: http://vance.ces.ncsu.edu/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/FEBRUARY-2015.pdf
This month, when we’re all planning what’s new to try in our vegetable and ornamentals gardens as soon as we can start seeds and work the ground, the Tidbits section features the 2015 All-America Selections (http://all-americaselections.org).
Anxious to get out in the garden, then this is the time to trim and prune. Most trees and ornamentals prefer to be shaped at this time of year. Remove diseased and dead limbs. Shape, keeping in mind that