THINGS I HAVE LEARNED ABOUT MYSELF AS A MASTER GARDENER Mary Jane Bosworth

Before we moved to North Carolina, I never knew there was such a thing as a Master Gardener. One day, as I was taking a break from helping my husband put siding on our new house, a neighbor drove over, all dressed up and with make-up on and I asked where she was going? She said she was going to a Master Gardener Meeting and after explaining what it was, asked if I would like to join? This was just after a worker with a backhoe offered to dig holes for the bushes I was trying to plant in solid, hard packed clay. Could I learn anything from going to a few meetings? I might. Also, I immediately thought how going to meetings would get me out of some construction duties and off ladders, so I said yes. The rest is history, some good, some bad, and some downright ugly. I did learn things. Most importantly, the soil in the South is different from that in Western New York. When you plant bushes in clay soil you don't include peat moss since it holds water and causes bushes to drown. As my gardening progressed over the years, through experience, I also learned other things. Don't believe everything you read on the label included by the company selling the plant. For example, if the label says the plant will grow to be 5' tall, it will most likely end up being 7'. Did you know that most bushes in NC grow to be the widest bushes in the world? Even becoming a Master Gardener did not prevent me from making these mistakes. See, I've always bought plants by price first and attributes second. I was made that way. It is not always a good thing when you are a gardener. I am now suffering from my previous picadillos. I have tall bushes where I should have short bushes. I could prune 24/7. Plants are spreading where I don't want them to and those I wish would spread, don't seem to know how. Over the years I have expanded gardens to completely surround the house. When my husband suggested I plant flowers on the side of the house so he wouldn't have to cut the sloping lawn, of course I obliged (now he complains about not being able to get to the house to power wash it because of the plants, but that is another story). Finally, I realized that something had to be done. The garden could take over my life. The only thing to do was to take drastic action. I made a plan and realized it would take a few years to complete. Along came Covid and gave me more time to execute my plan. I took stock of what I really liked about gardening, like: getting things organized in the spring, not working in the hot summer days, enjoying a few veggies from my garden, getting exercise in cool weather. On my “I hate to do list” were things like: having to prune too many bushes that were too big for me and required a ladder, constant weeding, bugs, deer, rabbits, squirrels, generally all creatures viciously attacking MY plants. Stage 1 included removing all things no longer wanted. Like puppies, the plants were cute when they were little but now they were like 300 pound dogs. Ten Burford Hollies were cut and killed. I was merciless. Nandina, spreading beyond belief, cut to the quick and sprayed to death (I hope). Pampas grass gone (with the help of heavy equipment). I did not have a clean slate to work on but I had eliminated a lot of tedious work. I must admit, I will miss the berries. Stage 2 required reformatting the gardens. Raised beds were constructed (thanks Bill) to organize and limit my veggie planting. Also with raised beds the crops could more easily be protected from deer with poles placed on the corners and a net covering. To access these raised beds, I made a WIDE path (eliminating more garden). One garden in the center of the lawn was completely eliminated and grass planted, making grass cutting easier. Stage 3 will happen this spring. If everything dies that is supposed to, I will be able to plant some nice, friendly plants. I do not want anything tall as I keep getting shorter. Nothing over 3 feet. Nothing prickly. I do not like pain. Nothing that will spread like crazy. I like plants that know their place. In conjunction with this, if anyone offers to share something from their garden I will be wary, as it MUST be spreading like crazy in their own garden. If I can't find enough plants to fill my garden, I will resort to garden décor; gnomes, statues, whirlygigs, pink flamingos. You get the idea. After almost 20 years as a Master Gardener, I still don't know if I am a Master but I do love the gardening, only now on my own terms. It only took me 20 years to figure this out but I learned a lot and had fun along the way.

ALL THE BUZZ by Bea Leach

All the Buzz, by Bea Leach It has been a mild winter here in Vance county until these last couple of weeks. This is the wettest winter I have experienced since moving here. I have enjoyed working in my yard on dry afternoons. On wet days, I do a walkabout looking at the plants and wondering what should be done in spring. When we moved into this house there were many plants, trees and shrubs that had been sadly neglected. Those that we knew weren’t going to make it were removed or transplanted to a spot that was more to the plants liking. But there was this one shrub. I just never could come to like it but yet, I didn’t feel like we should get rid of it either. The Berberis bealei, commonly known as Leatherleaf Mahonia, is just an odd looking plant. The irregular, long stems come out of the ground every which way. There is no form. And for goodness sakes, you do not want to back into that thing! Those spiny leaves are lethal. Somewhere in mid-January, it started to bloom with its showy yellow clusters. Meh, it has that going for it at least. I know those blooms will turn into clusters of purple berries that the birds love. But then I noticed something else about this shrub. Once the sun warmed things up, the bees came out and started enjoying the pollen from these flowers, and providing a winter nectar source is a great way to support our pollinator friends. However, I noted that the NC State Extension Plant Toolbox (https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu) lists the Berberis bealei as an invasive species. We have not had any problems with containing ours, so I asked the local Horticulture Agent, Paul McKenzie, why it was classified as such. Here’s what he said: “Plants are classified as ‘exotic invasive’ not necessarily due to spreading in your own yard, but because of their tendency to spread beyond your yard into places they’re not wanted such as natural habitats. In those habitats, they can compete or even displace native plant species, and while they may provide berries, nectar or other food, the quality of that food is generally inferior to what’s provided by native plants.” Another winter bloomer in our yard is the Chaenomeles speciosa, Flowering Quince. It has just started blooming bright reddish pink flowers. This shrub has been in our yard for the twelve years we have lived here. It obviously does not like its current location as it hasn’t grown in these years so we will move it to a sunnier location come spring. The other entertainment in our yard this winter is the birds. There have been so many birds that I have had a hard time keeping the four feeders and three suet baskets full. I am also feeding dried mealworms and scattering seed in the underbrush. The birds visiting my backyard are the usual suspects; Cardinals, Tufted Titmice, Carolina Wrens, Black Capped and Carolina Chickadees, Dark-eyed Juncos, Gray Catbird, Northern Mockingbird and Mourning Doves. Before this late winter cold snap, there were many Eastern Bluebirds dining at my feeders. We also have two pairs of Eastern Towhees! I was excited to see them return after a couple years absence. There is a pair of red bellied woodpeckers that can be seen every morning and again in the evening at the suet feeders. Mr. Checkers takes a chunk of suet and flies to a nearby branch where Mrs. Checkers is awaiting a bite. It is endearing to watch. Another bird always entertaining me is the White-breasted Nuthatch. These little characters are avian acrobats, hanging and walking upside down from branches and feeders and hopping head first and backwards along branches. They are the only bird that can go down a tree head first. Nuthatches store food by food caching. They wedge seeds, nuts or insects into the bark of a tree, then they cover it up with a bit of bark or lichen for winter eating. Like the woodpeckers, nuthatches are also monogamous and keep their mate for life. And then there are the bad boys of the backyard, the Blue Jay. People either like them or they hate them. I’ve always been partial to the bad boys, so I am in the camp that likes them. These loud, boisterous birds have many qualities that make them interesting and wanted in my backyard. The bright coloring of a Blue Jay is a welcome sight on a dreary, gray winter’s day. Blue Jays are members of the Corvidae family which include crows and ravens, birds that are considered very intelligent. One smart thing a Blue Jay does is imitate the call of a Red-Shouldered Hawk, thus alerting them and smaller birds to a predator in the vicinity. Blue Jays are thought to be the biggest reason oak trees have been spread across North America. Their love of nuts and seeds has led to many a tree or flower growing from a forgotten meal hidden away for winter. During spring and summer, they will feed nasty insects and caterpillars such as tent caterpillars and wasps and wasp larvae to nestlings. Blue Jays are also monogamous and the males work just as hard as the females to build a home and take care of their babies. If you are interested in birds, you need to check out Lesley the Bird Nerd on YouTube. She is amazing and has developed some pretty interesting relationships with the birds in her Canadian environment. Here’s hoping that all this wet weather makes for a lovely spring. Until next time…

HERE COMES THE SUN...

Juel Duke

As someone who has been a “serious hobbyist gardener” for decades I get frustrated by how many new gardeners (and there are many joining the hobby right now) make posts that show they don’t understand the “right plant in the right place” concept, especially the role that the sun plays in the health and vigor of a plant. Then I remember “sun exposure” was one of the hardest concepts for me to grasp, as well.  Despite classes and copious reading, it was a couple decades before I really understood that I needed to know how the sun moved over the potential planting spot and how that translated to the basic terms used to describe what spot meant “right place” as far as sun exposure.

Knowing how the sun passes over your property and observing the shadows of trees and other structures along that path is an excellent start.  Note the difference in the size of the shrubs from the far left to the far right in the picture above.  I pass this spot frequently so I know they are all the same type of plant, Vitex, planted at the same time when they were all basically the same size.  The vitex on the far right is half the height and much less vigorous than the one on the far left.  The two in the middle are like stair steps down to the smallest one.You can also see that there are trees to the right.  There are no trees nearby to the left.  I now understand that sun exposure is the likely cause for the differences.  No amount of fertilizer can make up for the lack of sun, especially to a plant that thrives in full sun.

The following link will take you to an article from Penn State Extension that provides a guidance on measuring sun exposure in your landscape: https://extension.psu.edu/planting-in-sun-or-shade. 

Why is it important to know your sun exposure?  You’ve seen those phrases on plant tags at the nursery.  Phrases like “Full sun”, “Partial shade/full shade” and others. Even if you have to look up the growing information about a plant, because there’s nothing but a name tag, it’s important to know the plant’s preference. There are standardized meanings for those terms that experienced gardeners know and rely on when choosing plants.   Combine the understanding of those terms with the info about the plant and you’re one step closer to “Right Plant, Right Place”.

Here’s a handy reference that I’ve excerpted from the Chatham County NC Extension Service.  The full presentation, which is excellent, is available at https://chatham.ces.ncsu.edu/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/FallPlantingOnlinept2.pdf. 

Exposure: Sun versus Shade Full sun: at least 8 hours direct sunlight each day Part sun: at least 4 hours direct sunlight each day Morning sun: gentler, shade plants are usually okay with morning sun Afternoon sun: hotter, harsher – choose sun tolerant plants for sites that get direct afternoon sun Light Shade: a bright shade such as that cast by pine trees – as opposed to a dark shade cast by buildings or hardwood trees

Of course, some plants are a little more forgiving than others about exposure but this gives you a place to start when trying to determine if a plant is likely to thrive where you want to plant it. 

For a bit more in-depth explanation, I give you this excerpt from the North Carolina Extension Gardener Handbook (ISBN-13: 978-1469641256). 

Sunlight  “Examine the type of light available, from full sun to partial sun, and heavy shade. How many hours a day is the site in full sun? When evaluating light exposure, note the duration and intensity of sunlight the site receives. Four hours of full sun during the morning is very different from 4 hours of stronger, more intense afternoon sun. There are also many types of shade, and the amount of light in a shaded location varies with the type, number, and size of trees in the area. If the site receives more than 3 hours of unfiltered midday sun, treat it as a "full sun" site. "Partial shade" is defined as receiving unfiltered morning sun but shade during the afternoon hours, or moderate shading throughout the entire day. A "heavily shaded" site would receive very little direct midday light and less than 60% of the sun's intensity during the remainder of the day. Few flowering plants do well in deep shade. Introducing more light to a shaded location can greatly increase flower production. Removing some tree limbs can allow more light to reach the ground below. Plants preferring partial shade may tolerate more sunlight if temperatures are moderate and adequate water is provided.”

North Carolina Extension Gardener Handbook on page 19-16.

This excellent book  is available to reference online at https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/extension-gardener-handbook. It can also be purchased through numerous retailers.

If you are interested in adding a vegetable garden, this article will be helpful.

https://www.buncombemastergardener.org/sunlight-vegetable-garden/

Please, take the time to learn about the various sun exposures in your space.  It’s a great way to save money by not killing as many plants as I did before I learned the basics.

FALL GARDENING CHECKLIST

Checklist of Things To Do in the Garden in the Autumn

By Mary Jane Bosworth

September

Many flowers have now set seeds and they may be collected and saved for the following year. Annuals and biennials are among the easiest to grow from seeds. Some you might want to consider for this project would be: marigolds, zinnias, spider flowers, strawflowers, larkspur, and sunflower.  Store seeds in a cool, dry place in a paper envelope or bag.

If you will be considering planting spring bulbs for the following year, now is the time to order them, so get out your catalogs or go on-line now.

Plant pansies for splashes of winter color.

Apply a pre-emergent herbicide to shrub beds to control winter annual weeds.

Divide and replant overgrown perennials such as hostas, coneflowers, daylilies. 

This is a good time to get your soil tested for next year’s plantings.

Remove spent annuals from your garden and cut the tops of perennials.

Bring houseplants indoors when temperatures dip below 50. Give them a good bath with soapy water or spray with insecticidal soap. Move plants to shade for a week to condition them to the lower light levels they will receive when they are returned to the house.

October

Now is the time to look for bargains at nurseries.

Keep watering so that plants don't get stressed.

Finish cleaning up garden beds by pulling out annuals and vegetables. Cut off tops of perennials.

Just before frost, dig up sweet potatoes and pick all the green tomatoes which can be wrapped in newspaper and will continue to ripen.

Most flowering shrubs can be propagated by hardwood cuttings. Make cuttings 6-8” long and dip in rooting hormone before setting in growing media.

Store the bulbs of Dahlia, Canna, Caladium, Gladiolus and Tuberous Begonia as they may not overwinter. Lift the roots, tubers or corms about the time of the first killing frost and store in a garage until the soil dries and then shake it off. Cutoff the dried stem and place in sawdust or peat moss and store in a basement or other cool, dry place. These plants cannot withstand freezing.

November

Plan now for spring color and plant spring flowering bulbs.

Prepare your vegetable beds by tilling or double digging the beds and adding organic matter.

Test your soil.

Keep up your garden care and harvest your cool season vegetables.

Plant asparagus this month. If you already have some, now is the time to cut back the ferny tops as they turn yellow and brown.

Mulch well around figs, pomegranates and other warmth loving fruits.

Pick, divide and share perennials.

ALL THE BUZZ! 

Belinda Leach

Summer is winding down at the Memorial Garden at the Vance County Regional Farmers Market. The plants and flowers have been doing what they do for our pollinator friends.  But there are more warm temperatures ahead and our pollinators still have much work to do.  Enter the amazing plant, Eutrochium dubium, a.k.a. Joe-Pye Weed.  Joe has been hanging out in the garden all spring and summer with his handsome large, dark green leaves patiently awaiting his time on stage. In late summer, Joe starts producing his large, airy clusters of inflorescences that range from light pink to dark purple and provide important late season nectar to the bees and butterflies.    

Joe-Pye Weed is a plant that is almost always happy where you plant him.  He likes a variety of soils, enjoys wet feet, but can endure some drought conditions, and will take full sun or part sun. Deer do not bother him, nor do other insects or diseases.  

Because Joe-Pye gets tall, six to eight feet in height, he is most suited for the back of a garden bed and needs plenty of room to spread out.  He can be made less leggy and become stockier by cutting back the plant by half in early summer.  Joe spreads through self-seeding and can be divided in the spring. As interesting as the plant, so too is the way it got its name.  The legend is that a New England medicine man, Joe Pye, used the plant to cure typhus.

The Memorial Garden is home to three cultivars of Joe-Pye; Eutrochium dubium “Baby Joe” and “Little Joe” and Eutrochium maculatum “Phantom”.  These plants will have another life this winter as the dried flower head will be left for the birds.  

Another spectacular display in the late summer garden is Solidago rugosa 'Fireworks', Fireworks Goldenrod.   This beauty looks like a huge display of bursting skyrockets with small, narrow, dark green leaves and tiny yellow or gold florets on long rigid stems.  

Goldenrod is just now becoming used frequently in gardens.   It has often been mistaken for ragweed which is hated by allergy sufferers.  Unlike ragweed, its pollen is not windblown, but the pollen has to be moved from plant to plant by our wonderful pollinator friends who are looking for late season nectar.  Goldenrod is easy to grow as it is a sun to part shade loving plant that will tolerate drought and poor soil, has few disease and insect problems and is deer resistant.

Salidago is wonderful as an accent in the back of a garden or border as it will get three to four feet tall.  Since it blooms in late summer, it provides a beautiful backdrop for late summer bloomers such as purple and blue asters and fall blooming flowers like chrysanthemums.  Goldenrod will stay blooming until frost and its droopy stems will provide interest to the garden in winter.

Adding Joe-Pye and Goldenrod will add a dazzling season finale to any garden.  

Editor’s note: If you are familiar with Joe Pye Weed being in the genus Eupatorium your memory is correct. Taxonomists have reclassified it as Eutrochium as correctly used in Ms. Leach’s article.

NOW THAT’S A MOSQUITO!
Juel Duke

The idea for this insect article literally landed on my hand.  I’ve lived near water most of my life but I was not prepared for the enormous mosquito that landed and stayed long enough for me to study it a bit.  Not a mosquito hawk or crane fly, but a mosquito I was sure.  His big fuzzy antennae told me it was a male so I was relieved that I didn’t need to worry about him using his enormous proboscis. The internet provided many images of “giant mosquito” but the descriptions weren’t right.  One hit that I happened to read in a bit more detail mentioned the Elephant Mosquito and it fit the bill right down to being very metallic and colorful.  In fact, the rainbow sparkle was the second most memorable feature, after the size.  The body of my visitor was easily a half inch long.

Turns out that the elephant mosquito, Toxorhynchites rutilus,  is one of the good guys and we should be excited to have it in our yards. The larval stage feeds on the larvae of other pest mosquitoes, a very good thing. 

Adults, both males and females are active only during the day and they use that proboscis to reach nectar in the blooms of plants.  I couldn’t find any information on numbers of these mosquitos but they appear to be wide spread though infrequently found over much of the southern United States.  Therefore, it’s unlikely that they are important pollinators but they are welcome to a share of the nectar from my plants.

Learn about critter friendly garden conservation practices.

GARDEN SYMPOSIUM ON MARCH 28TH 

AT THE FARMERS MARKET

Join the Vance/Warren Extension Master Gardener volunteers on March 28th for the annual Garden Symposium entitled “Petals, Pollinators & Passerines.” The theme this year is “conservation through gardening”, with lessons on how garden practices can help birds, bees and native plants. Our outstanding presenters include: Dr. Elsa Youngsteadt, noted pollinator researcher at NCSU and author of The Bees of North Carolina; Dr. Annabel Renwick, native plants curator at Duke Gardens; and Christina Harvey with the Wake County chapter of Audubon North Carolina. 

Registration begins at 8:30 am, with the program starting at 9:00 sharp. Register by March 17th for the early bird price of only $30, which includes refreshments and lunch. There will also be an optional afternoon workshop on Upcycling which will demonstrate how to make garden treasures out of items usually found in the trash or recycling bin. Pre-registration is strongly preferred. All the details, including the registration form, are posted at http://go.ncsu.edu/vancegarden. Or call the Vance County Extension Center 

at 252-438-8188.

The Symposium is co-sponsored by the Vance County Extension Center and the Vance/Warren Master Gardener Volunteer Association (Gardeners of Kerr Lake).